The Irony of Itaewon
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For those of you that are homesick, just go to Itaewon in Seoul. There’s the KTX bullet train for the pricey one hour trip or the cheaper bus trip for two hours. In the Lonely Planet book it describes Itaewon as a place with more foreigners that Koreans and the all the American troops that seem to be permanently stationed at Geckos it gives a feeling at familiarity and unease. For those of you looking for some light reading during the daytime there’s magazines and comic books, must resist nerdish urges, at What the Book up a hill that is mainly populated by well…. those aren’t bars. Some things you’ll just have to figure out on own. The shops and sellers are a riot because you can’t just casually look they are always selling something. Phrases to have on the tip of your tongue are “No I don’t want to buy a Rolex.” and “No I’m just looking.” Also if you have any limited knowledge of an other language this is the time to whip out, so to speak. That German language class I suffered through came in handy when saying no to a seller from a “bar.” There is also Krazy Burger where they don’t always tell you that there is a cooked egg in your burger and I thought that corn on the pizza was the worst thing I’d have to deal with living in Korea. My last trip I spent too much money and that leather jacket is already starting to fall apart the minute I got it home in Daejeon. For all you ladies out there Itaewon is the place to find knock offs of designer bags and don’t be afraid to haggle there’s no telling how long the bags will last.(See previous sentence regarding my leather jacket. I’m out thirty thousand won.) Also for many women that are having trouble finding clothes only seem to be made for the rail skinny Korean gal; they have clothing shops for women that enjoy a Brickhouse burger. For me the fries are garnish, but my students will still point to my beer belly and say “baby!” My reply is always “Full sentence!” Which in itself is a sentence fragment so don’t bother pointing that out you anal English majors. Hotels in Itaewon are very pricey the Hamilton will set you back one hundred and forty thousand won, but it is right where the action is with a it’s very own mall, restaurant and sauna. Man I wish I had just stayed in the sauna and saved myself a bunch of money. But when you dragging around loot, which is mainly South Park and Simpson neck ties, in monsoon season. The urge to put a room on your credit card is harder to resist than giving into the dark side when you’ve just constructed a new light sabre and that Jehovah’s Witness keeps on bugging you. Must resist the dark side. There is also D’or hotel for about eighty thousand won but it is harder to find. No real punchline on that last one just a general tip. Now I’m sure those anal English majors will point out that the irony of Itaewon is the Alanis Morissette version of Irony and not the actual Irony but when you are standing on that hill looking at bars, shops, coffee shops next to a Muslim Mosc and Transvestite bars. It’s a place that looks part melting pot and part mosaic with American soldiers walking side by with Africans, Koreans and a few of us Canuks. The sex toy shop was closed but there was a phone number for emergencies and off in the distance a neon cross to complete the irony…juxtaposition…see for yourself and tell me what to call it. Those are my principles, and if you don't like them... well, I have others. Groucho Marx |
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7/24/2008 2:21 pm |
Interesting post, Jeff. I too was surprised by the corn and sweet potatoes on the pizza. The first sweet potato pizza I had was in Co-ex. Have you been there? They also have Bennigan's restaurant there in Co-ex, but my Canadian friend told me that the restaurant chain is American, not Canadian. Another aspect about Korea that surprised me was the warm rain during the monsoon season. I'd hate to walk under cold soaking rain, but loved the warm rain and did not mind getting wet sometimes. Itaewon, to me, seemed to vibrate with sleazy energy in general, and I stayed away though I did pass through there once out of pure curiosity. I preferred to shop at Nam Dae Moon (South Great Door) easily reached via the public train, and if you ever want to lose the "baby" on your tummy you could get a few cheaper sports outfits in Nam Dae Moon. I am still glad to have purchased those small fleece-like workout towels that come folded in about 2x7 inch plastic box that can be put into a gym bag. They were only a few American dollars... which would be about 3-4 thousand won for each, I guess. If you get a chance you may want to visit Suraksan (Surak Mountain) and see the Buddhist temples, ride the cable, and hike up to the mountain. There is a beautiful & huge sitting Buddha that many tourists (including myself) like to take photos with. It's is located kind of far away from Seoul though. You sound as you are adjusting to the life in Korea well enough so far. 
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7/24/2008 10:50 pm |
Yes I've been to Co-ex mall that place reminded me of West-Edmonton mall back home. I got lost with a friend in Co-ex as we were trying to find our way out. Life in Korea has had it's ups and downs. It's been a year now and I've just signed up for another. Thank you very much for the tips on places to see. My parents and sister are arriving next week and I'll have to check out those locations. Thanks again Those are my principles, and if you don't like them... well, I have others. Groucho Marx
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 7/25/2008 5:10 am |
A Muslim Mosque beside a Transvestite bar would only be Ironic in other countries or places. Assuming the Mosque was there first, they would have had no say in the zoning of the sex shops etc... Ironic is the opposite to what you expected... ...but in Korea you gotta expect the unexpected.
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7/25/2008 10:08 am |
Hey Jeff how are ya. TO be honest, Itawon depresses me. It is one of the darker sides of Seoul. I avoid going there. Jeff 140 dollars for Hamilton Hotel is a ripoff. Next time you need to go, let me know, I ll get you a discount. Only redeeming aspect of Itaewon are the little live clubs that play the music that remind one of home (US).
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8/1/2008 9:58 am |
Yes Owen they weren't right next door. But within 10 or 15 minutes of walking distance. So odds are a Muslim might bump into a Trany and another of the characters in the area. Now that I think about in my home town of Edmonton there was a strip club with monthy parking rates across the street from a Christian church. So I guess every city has it's little Ironies. Those are my principles, and if you don't like them... well, I have others. Groucho Marx
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8/1/2008 10:06 am |
sweetpepe Yes Itaewon is the darkside of Seoul and the darkside of Korea, but it's not all of Korea. The 140 buck hotel was a moment of weakness in the rain. Normally I stay at Sky Motel in Isadong. for about 30 or 40 bucks. One time when I was fighting with the Canadian gov't over my Criminal background check I stayed there during the week and lucked out with room with bathtub with jets. I too love live bands. In Daejeon there's the White boys,the lead singer is a black guy but that's a different story, and they would get together and jam whenever they could at Cool Bar until it closed down. Now my parents and sister are visiting which is a whole other ball game. So I'll be taking care of them for a while. Thanks everyone for the comments and reading my random observations, but it will be a while since my next post and I have to fight two Visa companies as well. Bye for now. Those are my principles, and if you don't like them... well, I have others. Groucho Marx
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